A former French Legionnaire, Jean-Michel is disciplined, tireless and determined as a winemaker. His own penchant for world class wine, especially Champagne, drives this. Having worked from Bordeaux to Collio, he is a winemaker in the “classical” sense, but sees experimentation as necessary to improvement. Combining ancient technique, with modern know how, Kabaj is among the best wineries in Slovenia. The 2008 Merlot was gamey and closed off when first poured, this is all about structure, a dark, savory red with scents of tree bark and fresh pomegranate, amaro spices and meaty black juice. Some acidity brightens the wine, shot through its black tannins, lending a clean, fresh appeal.
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